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Schecter positioned the C-1 FR S SLS Elite LH within its upper-tier SLS (Schecter Luthier Series) line as a left-handed, feature-laden instrument built around active sustain technology and a floating tremolo system. It was constructed neck-through with Ultra Access and carried a swamp ash body topped with flamed maple, bound in ivory 1-ply, with an arched top contour.
The multi-ply maple, walnut, and padauk neck — reinforced with carbon fiber rods — ran a 25.5" scale across a 24-fret ebony fretboard with a 12"-16" compound radius and X-jumbo stainless steel frets. The Ultra Thin 'C' profile measured .748" at the first fret and .787" at the twelfth, with a Floyd Rose 1500 Series nut at 1.625" width. Tuning was handled by Grover Rotomatic 18:1 tuners. The Floyd Rose 1500 Series bridge anchored the system. Electronics centred on a Fishman Fluence Modern ceramic humbucker at the bridge paired with a Sustainiac driver at the neck; the control layout included volume, a push-pull tone, a 3-way pickup switch, a 2-way Sustainiac on/off switch, and a 3-way Sustainiac mode switch cycling through Fundamental, Mix, and Harmonic modes. Two 9-volt clip-in batteries powered the active circuitry. Hardware throughout was finished in black, with metal knurled knobs secured by set screws and abalone offset/reverse dot inlays with abalone side dots. The instrument was manufactured in South Korea.
Owners requiring setup adjustments, fret work, or Floyd Rose servicing should consult a qualified guitar technician familiar with double-locking tremolo systems; the heel-access spoke-wheel truss rod and compound-radius fretboard benefit from a technician experienced with those specific features.
Nothing in The Vault is for sale. These records exist so the instruments stay documented after the manufacturer moves on — and the most useful part of that record is what owners add to it.
The catalog shot showed one finish, under one light, a long time ago. Yours has been played. Photos from owners are what the next person finds when they are trying to identify a part, match a finish, or work out whether the one they just bought is really what the seller said it was.
Specs only go so far. What actually fits, what breaks first, what the factory got right and what everyone ends up changing — that lives with the people who own them, not in a datasheet. Post what you know and it stays on this page for whoever comes looking next.
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From spec questions to full builds — players who have lived this gear since 2007.
Since 2007
